After two short days in the Peruvian capital, we took a flight to Juliaca airport near Puno, drove for an hour along dusty roads to the edge of Lake Titicaca and took a two hour boat trip to a tiny, remote island called Amantani. Perched on the edge of the rocks is Amantica Lodge: a luxurious sanctuary with breathtaking lake views, an incredible feeling of being at the edge of the world, and probably the most unique, romantic place we've ever stayed.
There's one building, one lodge, and nothing else. You have exclusive hire of the whole place with a private chef and nothing else around you other than still blue waves as far as the eye can see, hazy mountain peaks in Bolivia on the horizon and the odd fisherman slowly bobbing by.
When our boat arrived, our bags were taken upstairs - only about 12 stairs, but at 3,810m altitude, you can really feel those 12 - and we were greeted with pisco sours as we settled into our cosy, peaceful new home. After a late lunch - including a delicious causa, which I was obsessed with in Peru (a light, traditional layered potato dish mixed with different ingredients) - we were asked what we wanted to do and when, as all activities are tailored to you. I've never stayed in a place which masters rustic luxury quite so well: plush soft furnishings, a modern glass fireplace, natural Peruvian toiletries, bespoke activities and great food prepared just for you, contrasting with a thatched roof, mud walls, no TV, no music and no internet. The blissful peace and quiet and being surrounded by beautiful nature reminded me of staying in a log cabin in Big Sur, and I think of both wonderful retreats often.
That afternoon, we clambered into a little boat with a local islander to go fishing, catching dozens of tiny silver fish with nets the slow, traditional way. Back at the lodge as night fell, we watched the skies turn from vibrant orange to hot pink, inky blue and darkness punctuated with the glowing moon and brilliant, bright starry sky. I've never seen stars like it. Daniel, the consummate chef and host, prepared a traditional dinner with local ingredients and served a bottle of Chilean Malbec as we ate on the terrace to the sound of lapping waves.
When our boat arrived, our bags were taken upstairs - only about 12 stairs, but at 3,810m altitude, you can really feel those 12 - and we were greeted with pisco sours as we settled into our cosy, peaceful new home. After a late lunch - including a delicious causa, which I was obsessed with in Peru (a light, traditional layered potato dish mixed with different ingredients) - we were asked what we wanted to do and when, as all activities are tailored to you. I've never stayed in a place which masters rustic luxury quite so well: plush soft furnishings, a modern glass fireplace, natural Peruvian toiletries, bespoke activities and great food prepared just for you, contrasting with a thatched roof, mud walls, no TV, no music and no internet. The blissful peace and quiet and being surrounded by beautiful nature reminded me of staying in a log cabin in Big Sur, and I think of both wonderful retreats often.
That afternoon, we clambered into a little boat with a local islander to go fishing, catching dozens of tiny silver fish with nets the slow, traditional way. Back at the lodge as night fell, we watched the skies turn from vibrant orange to hot pink, inky blue and darkness punctuated with the glowing moon and brilliant, bright starry sky. I've never seen stars like it. Daniel, the consummate chef and host, prepared a traditional dinner with local ingredients and served a bottle of Chilean Malbec as we ate on the terrace to the sound of lapping waves.
We were jet-lagged and tired as our bodies acclimatised to the altitude, but wanted to stay up and savour the moment as much as possible. As the temperature dropped, we had another glass of wine wrapped in blankets in front of the fire, before collapsing into the super comfortable bed and sleeping like babies. We slept with the curtains open so we could watch the sunrise and woke up refreshed at 5am with the sun beaming beautiful, changing colours over the glassy lake once again.
We had some coca tea, kept warm overnight on the fireplace, had a relaxing spring water bath in the huge stone bathtub and watched the first fishermen go out for the day. Breakfast was an indulgent affair in the sunshine with tea and coffee, fresh juice and fruit, crusty bread and local cheese, yoghurt, grains, olives and hard-boiled quail's eggs. We walked around the island through the small sleepy town past fields, verdant gardens and locals in traditional dress, before heading back to pack our bags and set sail to Puno. I loved our trip to Peru, and our meticulous planning (my favourite pastime) meant we stayed at the best places, saw incredible sights and packed a lot in, but I wish we'd stayed another night there. If you're planning a trip to Peru: I can't recommend Amantica Lodge enough. It's expensive but worth the splurge for a once-in-a-lifetime experience on the serene shores of one of the highest lakes in the world, and one of the best night's sleep you'll ever have.
Amantica Lodge, Isla Amantani Lago Titicaca, Ocosuyo, Peru | Browse more hotel reviews & Peru features
